Day 1,395

Ferdi and Viki

Back in Cusco we had invited some cycling friends, Eddy and Silvan, for a home-made meal, always a treat when away from home. They'd mentioned that a young Hungarian couple, Ferdi and Viki were at their hostel. We got in touch, they offered to fix Tom's torn down jacket, so it seemed rude not to invite them along too, Ferdi even brought cake for us all. We didn't realise then that this chance meeting with this lovely couple would have such an impact on our lives. They had been travelling for about a month and were still missing family and home, so the meal and the friendships we all developed proved a real help to them both. 

We continued on our separate journeys, they left with Eddy and Tom and I headed off to the amazon. A few weeks later, Eddy was on his way to the salt flats, Silvan was riding his usual choice of route, tough and remote, but the rest of us met up in La Paz, Bolivia. We had a great few days catching up but then tragic news from home meant our journey was over for a while and we needed to get out of La Paz, bikes and all, fast. A Sunday 7am call to Ferdi and they showed what friends they are. They organised everything whilst Tom and I struggled with the shock. 

So, fast forward 8 months and we are back on the road, whilst Ferdi and Viki have completed their adventure, well for now! Our route was taking us through Hungary and obviously a  meet up was planned. They had recommended a great campsite just over the border from Slovakia, so we booked in there and, as it came with a sauna and thermal pools, we had a great relaxing afternoon.  

Late afternoon they arrived. Immediately they handed us a chocolate bar, a Hungarian speciality made with cream, so it needed to be eaten straight away. It was yum, but technically we were on our way to eat dinner, oh well, when in Hungary! Then Ferdi explained that cake was next. Hungarians have a real sweet tooth, and cater for this with cake shops everywhere full of delicious treats. Naturally they have created some unique ones and Ferdi insisted we try a selection. Oh boy, they were so good we couldn't refuse. 

Four people, five cakes, naturally!

By now we were all feeling somewhat stuffed so decided to delay dinner and head over the Danube for a quick look around Slovakia. Our campsite was in Komárom, the other half of the city, Komárno, was In Slovakia. They had both been part of Hungary until 4 June 1920, when under the Treaty of Trianon the Danube was used to create the border between Hungary and the then Czechoslovakia, and the larger part of the city north of the river was renamed and became Czech. The history of both countries has been one of invasions and this sort of arbitrary action is something they have grown used to, if not actually happy with. 

They gave us a guided tour and brief history lesson. We learnt about their favourite King,  Matthias Corvinus, The Just. He became king aged just 14 in 1458, and along with the usual wars to protect his land and invade a few others appears to have been a pretty decent guy who deserved his nickname The Just. He created one of the earliest professional armies, promoted people on their merits rather than who they were related to, had an interest in the arts, and had one of the largest collections of books in Europe. Unfortunately he died without a legitimate heir and his conquests were soon lost after his death, aged 47 on 6 April 1490. His statue stands to this day in Komárno, and the Slovakians are looking after him well. 

Unbelievably we were starting to feel peckish and headed off for a late dinner, no cake though.  

The following morning Viki and Ferdi took the train from Tata so they could ride with us for the day, our destination was Viki’s parents house. We rode slowly, taking time to explore the area. The Soviet Union, who had ruled Hungary for many years, had built many factories  and we cycled by the remains of one with its rather dramatic slogans. 

‘For us, work is a matter of honour and glory’

Traditional Hungarian dress

Then onwards, through the beautiful countryside, past King Matthius’ summer residence where we ate the local speciality (a cake obviously) called Chimney Cake, which was wonderful. It tasted a bit like doughnut mixed with pastry, and was fantastic. We went through the local park, called English Park,and very aptly named it was too, full of plane trees. Naturally we stopped for more cake, probably the best so far, at least we ate them instead of lunch. 

The very aptly named, English Park

Viki left us at this point as she had the car to drive home. She kindly offered to take our pannier bags, I gratefully accepted, but Tom decided he'd see if he could keep up with me whilst riding fully loaded. After about 30 seconds the experiment was over, he couldn't. Still he had about another 4 miles to confirm the results, all uphill. 

We spent the evening eating Hungarian Goulash, drinking home made spirits, and polished off the evening with more cake that Viki and Ferdi had made. We met Viki's parents who kindly offered us a bed for the night. It was a wonderful experience, joining these chance-met friends in their home. 

A lovely reunion

The following morning Viki and Ferdi rode with us for a few miles, but after hugs we carried on alone, to explore more of Hungary. We were sad to say goodbye but know we will meet again.