Day 161
Crocodile x 2 + Griffon Vulture x 15 = A good day
Snow and wind have combined to stop us riding. Storm Arwen, which has felled trees, covered vast areas in snow and caused havoc to the road system in the UK is causing similar problems here in Spain. We have stopped in the town of Berlanga de Duero to avoid the worst of its fury.
Now I love my history and this town does not disappoint. Excavations have shown that the area had been lived in for thousands of years. The Romans stayed for a while. It got its name Berlanga in the 10th century. It’s position meant it was in a buffer zone between the Christian Kingdom of Leon and Castile in the North and the Moors in the South. Finally in 1060 King Ferdinand 1st of Castile and Leon took control of Berlanga and the surrounding towns. Due to a policy to repopulate this area the town grew and became an economic hub. Over the years the Crown grew weak and by the 14th century the town was part of the estate of Tello Alfonso of Castile. One of his illegitimate children, Leonor, married into the Tovar family, and they owned it until the 19th century. In 1482 the plan to create the town we see today was drawn up. In 1522 work began on the new fortress, the large church, built to replace ten smaller churches in the area, also began though never quite completed. Too expensive! There was also a palace, a fountain, a chapel, a hospital and a monastery. Over the years, wars, fire and neglect have led to the destruction and decay of many of these. It was not until the early 2000s that the whole estate was bought by the local Town Council, and a conservation programme commenced.
We were able to visit the church, Tom’s photos will show its beauty far better than any words of mine. The remains of one of the town’s famous sons lies within. Fray Tomos de Berlanga, who whilst governor of Panama found time to discover the Galapogos Islands. He brought back a few samples of the wildlife, which are on display in the church. He even has a statue in the square, streets and restaurants named after him, and his face carved into many a door.
After the morning in the town we went for a walk around the base of the castle. We were in for a treat. Soaring above us were dozens ofwhat at first we thought were eagles. Photos and videos were taken, and sent off to our friend Suna, a girl that knows her birds. She was confident we had seen not eagles but vultures. The Griffon Vulture to be precise. It has a wingspan of between 2.3 and 2.8 metres, and has a very powerful beak! Fortunately they weren’t interested in us, and we stood, heads tilted to the sky, mouths agape, staring at these awesome creatures. Even now, I simply need to look out of my hotel room, and there they are, floating of the thermals above the castle, just fantastic!
