Day 320
Split Rock
The horrendous weather forecast proved to be completely wrong, we had sunshine instead of rain, hey ho, we enjoyed our break. Tom got the film editing up to date and I worked flat out at resting and catching up with Netflix!
Saratoga is famous for its hot springs, so Tom and I clearly couldn’t miss out. The springs are free to access 24/7, there are also hot showers to use. There are 3 pools, I could only manage to cool one, even then I had to pop out to cool off every few minutes. Tom clearly braved the two other pools, the very hot one and the so-hot-you-had-to-be-a-complete-idiot-to-try one. Whilst Tom attempted to boil himself alive I got chatting to two brothers, Dale and Gean. They live about 45 miles from here and had just popped over to use the springs. Gean kindly offered to host us when we get to Rawlins, a convenient day’s ride for us, fantastic!
Saratoga is also known as ‘the town where trout jump in the main street’. Legend has it that a delivery driver, Jack Fulkerson had a delivery for the local saloon, but growing impatient when no one came to help him unload lobbed a stick of dynamite into the North Platte River that runs through the town. All was calm during our stay, but clearly some trout survived as the town is still a mecca for visiting fishermen.
Both rested, we set off to Rawlins. We were on a fairly quiet road for a fair few miles, beautiful views all around. Unfortunately, the county road ended and we had 13 fairly miserable miles on the busy interstate highway. At the town of Sinclair, we were relived to be back on the county road which would take us all the way to Rawlins. The town consists of a petrol station, an oil refinery and a few houses, despite this I actually managed to lose Tom for about 20 minutes! With the aid of a very nice local policeman, Geoff, we were reunited and back on our way.
In a few days’ time we will be in the bear country of Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. So, we stopped at Walmart to stock up on provisions as shops will be very limited in the Parks and bought more bear spray too. Our bags have been rearranged so anything that could attract the grizzlies is all packed together. They seem to like everything apart from our smelly bike kit!
Dale and Gean were wonderful hosts. Dale, an experienced hiker was able to help us with camping info and the best bits to look out for. Gean, a talented musician, told us many an interesting tale about his career, singing and playing the guitar in Canada and Alaska. He owns some awesome guitars, Martin 28s. Hand-built in the States with a mix of beautiful wood. He played them for us and they sounded awesome, thanks Gean. He also told us that the original name of Jeffrey city, where we were heading was actually ‘Home on the Range’ the song of the same name was written in its honour. The sleepy little town would probably have retained its quaint name but for the discovery of uranium by a prospector Robert ‘Bob’ Adams in 1954. The town boomed, and Bob renamed it Jeffrey City in honour of the doctor in Rawlins who was his biggest backer. The nuclear disaster at the Three Mile Island plant in 1979 put paid to the USA’s demand for uranium and the boom town reverted back to its sleepy ways, only the name remains.
The ride out from Rawlins took us along one road for the next 45 miles. Well stocked with food and water we were heading for a place called Split Rock. The ride was stunning with beautiful mountains all around, the rolling hills made it a fantastic ride. First we were heading to Muddy Gap, where there was a gas station and store. The wind was starting to pick up and we were very relieved when we arrived at Muddy Gap. Disaster though as it was shut! We found an outside tap and filled one bottle with water for washing and headed off to Split Rock.
Now Split Rock, also known as Twin Peaks was a famous marker for the brave souls that headed west in their wagons to Oregon. The tracks formed by their wagon wheels in the 1860s are still visible today. It was also a post for the short-lived pony express. Operating for just 18 months, from April 1860 to October 1861, a team of fit young men and horses could take mail from Missouri in the East to California on the West Coast in just 10 days. The advent of the telegraph killed it off, but not before it gave birth to legends about these fearless riders, such as William ‘Buffalo Bill Cody’ who was one of the fastest riders, covering vast distances in often dangerous conditions to ensure the mail got through.
We were thrilled to arrive there. The setting is stunning, Tom and I pitched up the tent and went for a scramble over the rocks. Ancient trees were somehow able to survive and grow between the rocks, I wished I had my nephew Jed with me, as I know he would have loved climbing up, around and through these rocks. Tom was fascinated and went back twice more during the few hours we were there to capture the site at sunset and sunrise.
As we had ridden along the day before I spotted a road side that advised us that this area is prone to severe winds. Now if they put a sign up I guess it must get bad. Today we got to experience just how bad. The wind was blowing in our faces at over 30 miles an hour. We also had to contend with fierce gusts from the side as well as head on. I lost count of the times I was blown off, finally, unable to make any headway I simply gave up trying to stay on my bike and pushed for about 3 miles. Eventually after our shortest riding day of the trip, just 14.3 miles I spotted Jeffrey City, somehow I found the strength to get back on the bike for the last mile. It had taken 3 hours at an average speed of 4.8 miles per hour to get here and we weren’t going any further. Dale had been doubtful that the Green Mountain Motel I had spotted on Google Maps was still in business, but fortunately it is. We were warmly greeted, praised for our efforts in getting here and were soon ensconced in a warm room out of that wind! Tomorrow will be a better day..
