Day 515
La Paz
Well what can I say about La Paz? It was a complete culture shock after 3 weeks in the Baja. Paved side streets not just the main road, hotels, bars, shops, hell there was even a Macy's. The Pension California where we stayed was just spot on. Very inexpensive, a hot-ish shower if you timed it right, a beautiful central courtyard kitchen to relax in, and Italian opera every morning. Tom wasn’t so keen on that but I loved it! We had a great last night with Isabell, and after a final mojito and lunch she was on her way! We decided to do what tourists do, wander the malecón with it’s beautiful views and so many wonderful sculptures and people watching to do as we stopped for a drink, it was bliss. We even found time for some culture, visiting the museum and art gallery. Having recently celebrated the Day of the Dead, so much of the art work was about that and how the culture of the Mexicans has absorbed the Catholic traditions whilst still retaining their own beliefs. All very modern, brilliant, but sadly virtually empty.
I lost a day, either my body just said rest or I had one too many margaritas! When our departure day dawned, I was still feeling somewhat tender but we decided to extend our ride past the ferry terminal to a stunning beach a few miles further on. Unfortunately, a few more had the same idea, and to protect this nature reserve they limit the numbers. It was road closed for us. We backtracked to a beach near the ferry, relaxed with a swim and ate a cycle tourers lunch of jam and peanut butter sandwiches! Then we spotted two fully loaded bikes! Moe and Harry from Canada. They were heading for the ferry too, finally more cyclists! As we waited for the ferry more tourers continued to arrive, Alfred, Charlie, Nico, and Jong. Like Moe and Harry they were all set up for off-road touring, and had been riding a mix of dirt tracks and road. The Baja Divide tracks are not maintained, so a combination of sand, hurricanes, 4x4 vehicles, etc. makes for one brutal ride. They all looked more exhausted than we do normally!
The ferry was like all ferry rides, park the bikes away from the trucks, find our designated seat, all the cabins being booked out for the 13 hour overnight journey. Then food! Included in the ticket price. As we devoured our piled high plates, we noticed something more in keeping with a cruise ship than a ferry, a stage! Sure enough, by 8pm we had entertainment in the form of a song duo. We decided to play ‘name that tune’, and unbelievably I got the first 5 correct. They sang in English, covers from the Rat Pack, and ‘classics’ from the 70s. I think the ‘Save your kisses for me’ by that legendary duo Brotherhood of Man was the final straw for Harry and broken, he and Moe headed for bed, I mean chairs. Tom and I braved a few more, they switched to Spanish but before long we too left for bed. I’m not sure who designed the sleeping chairs but neither of us could get remotely comfortable, so camping mattresses in hand, we headed off to a random hallway behind some chairs and settled down for a sleepless night!
