Day 830
Crazy terrain
Feeling fully rested after a day lazing in La Pintada, we had breakfast for the second day in a row at the 24-hour cake shop. Then at 6.30am, hoping to beat the heat, we were off. We had decided to take the quieter but significantly hillier route, over 10,000 feet of extra climbing to Manizales than the highway route. We hoped to ride it in about 4 days. The start was fairly easy going, a flat dirt road by the river, and virtually traffic free. We also had pretty decent shade from the sun with trees lining and overhanging the route. Slowing we pulled away from the river and started the first climb, up for 18 miles, and just short of 6,000 feet of ascent. We were doubtful that we would make it all today though, five months off the bike has left me very unfit and I need to really pace myself.
We also had a dilemma of where to finish. Wild camping in this area of Colombia is virtually impossible as any tiny area of flat ground has a house on it, with virtually none of them having room for us to pitch our tent. The road weaves it way up, carved into a narrow strip on the side of the hills. The first hotel was 21 miles away, remote in the hills, or if we had the energy, we might reach the small town of Aguadas which has several. The climb was tough, mainly graded between 7% and 10% with short sections of 4% which let us regain our breath! The days of me climbing without stopping at all are long gone. We stopped almost every half mile for a rest, then as the day wore on every few hundred yards. Just for a minute or so, take a drink, a few deep breaths and onwards.
Although tough the rewards were awesome. The views were breath-taking, we spotted woodpeckers, squirrel cuckoos, straight billed wood-creepers, hummingbirds and so many more colourful birds that I have yet to learn the names of. Butterflies of all sizes, some as big a fist, fluttered around us. Whenever I had a really low moment one would be there, almost encouraging me on. I like to think it’s the spirit of Gricel supporting me. At midday we reached the small but hilly town of Arma. As we ate lunch, not a classic I’m afraid to say, we contemplated seeing if we could find somewhere to stay. For once nobody seemed interested in us. We lurked in the church for a while but it was empty. We popped into the corner shop and though very kind and helpful, their only suggestion was a ‘very dodgy pub’, their words, not ours, so on we went.
The views got better and better, we stopped and watched an old guy beginning the long process of producing coffee from the beans growing around his house. I had a near accident, when pulled over to let some police go by, the truck in front of me, rolled back and knocked me off my bike. I got it and myself out of harm’s way but was really shaken. More so because, though clearly aware something had happened, he just drove off. I mean he could have at least offered me a lift up the hill as an apology!
We looked in vain for any house that was occupied with space for us to camp but there was nothing. Fortunately, we knew there was a hotel only a few miles further on so we pushed on. Finally, 10 hours after we set off, we arrived. An absolutely fantastic spot, with such awesome views all around so good the owners have even built a 3-storey viewing platform. He took one look at us and handed us both a cooling drink. No one rides up here he said, well not on fully loaded tourers. Mad dogs and Englishmen do!
