Day 95
Mont Saint-Michel
We had a long chat with Edith over breakfast, poring over maps as she shared her knowledge of cycling in France. We were soon away though as despite having only 16 miles to go we were eager to get going. We were off to see Mont Saint-Michel and we couldn’t wait!
Whilst chatting with Edith she had told us of the legend of the origins of Mont Saint-Michel. Saint Michel has been worshipped since at least the 5th century. In Italy the Monte Gregano is dedicated to his memory. The story of Michel and his Angels destroying a demon in the form of a dragon is told in the bible.
Legend has it that in the late 600s, the archangel Michel appeared to the Bishop of Avranches three times in a dream, requesting him to build a sanctuary and dedicate in his name. The Bishop did not understand the dream, so on the third attempt Michel poked his finger into the Bishop’s skull to get the message across. It worked! The Bishop sent to Monte Gregano for the relics of the archangel and they were placed in the Mont-Tombe. The sanctuary was completed and dedicated to Saint Michel on 16 October 709. As for the Bishop, well his skull is on display in the church of Saint-Gervais in Avranches. The hole in his skull is clearly visible.Recent tests on a fragment of the skull have confirmed that it belongs to someone who lived in that area in that time. You can’t argue with that!
As we rode along some wonderful new cycle-only track, we bumped into an Irish couple, Mary and Tony, who we had met on the ferry. We rode along together for a while, comparing our experiences so far, then parted company as we headed to our campsite, hoping to meet up later, but that wasn’t to be. I so hope they are enjoying their trip.
Tent up in record time we cycled along the new road bridge to Mont Saint-Michel. Nothing prepares you for the reality. We had been given tantalising glimpses as we rode from Avranches,but up close it is simply mind blowing. It was given Unesco World Heritage site status in 1979. Would it live up to Giant’s Causeway, the other Unesco site we have visited? The location, a small island sat 1k from the mainland, in a mesmerising bay, part in Normandy part in Brittany, is stunning. It looks like some magical land as it rises above the bay. It was free to wander around at will. We avoided the busy entrance street, where you can shop, drink, buy mementos, or even book into a hotel! Instead, we climbed the first of many sets of steps up and around it’s many winding streets, weaving between ancient buildings. Though busy it was not crowded and we climbed and walked for several hours, stunned again and again as we turned each corner. For a small fee we spent time in the Abbey, this was pretty quiet as it was now late afternoon. Tom may have taken several photos, that’s 100s not 10s! For me, sorry UK, but it beats the Giant’s Causeway in every way. If you haven’t visited then go, go now, you will not be disappointed.
